Southwest Escape
On a rainy early morning in Spring, we met with a group of like-minded keen beans to start our convoy into the Southwest. We began the journey, stopping along the way for petrol in New Norfolk. Brodie and I usually head straight in to Mount Field National Park to climb a mountain or soak in the magic of the waterfalls and tall trees. This weekend would be different, planned thoughtfully by our friend Carmel.
There are so many fantastic locally run businesses in this area of Tasmania (like in every other part of the island!) and we were lucky enough to be given a chance to experience some of these along the way as we set out to explore some of the more accessible parts of this wild region.
Marriotts Falls
Difficulty - Easy - the track is easy to follow and reasonably well maintained, however given that most of the track is through rainforest, the usual care needs to be taken with slippery tree roots and mud.
Distance - 5km return
Time - 2 hours return
Our first stop was Marriotts Falls near Tyenna, about 10 minutes past Mount Field. Mount Field’s popular Russell & Horseshoe Falls are the main attraction in this area, but it often means people miss out on making it to this equally beautiful place. We followed the map to the Marriotts Falls trailhead and as skies turned darker above us, we put on our rain gear and began walking.
A short walk along Tyenna river quickly opened out in to beautiful open fields and I was completely in awe of the display of yellow before me. This was the perfect time to be here, amongst the flowering blackwoods and other wattles. We soon disappeared in to the rainforest, where we followed an undulating track all the way to the falls. The moss and undergrowth smelt heavenly as the rain brought out the best scents of the forest.
We emerged from the rainforest and were met with the loud thunder of water and a cool mist on our faces. As we were in the company of other tripod armed photographers, we quietly spread out amongst the ferns to take a photo and admire the impressive power of Marriotts Falls.
On the return walk the rain lightly made its way through the forest canopy. As we reached the grassy plains again, light rain turned in to a heavy downpour and we ran for cover under an old blackwood tree before making the final dash back to where we were parked.
We continued onward, stopping for a delicious burger at Maydena Bike Park. This place is an adrenalin junkie’s dream and as soon as I walked in I could feel the excitement and energy amongst the riders, ready to conquer some of the best mountain bike trails in the world. A shuttle bus runs all day, bringing riders to the top of the mountain where they can choose between tracks of varying difficulty leading back down to base camp. I can’t wait to come back here one day to give it a go!
The drive along the Gordon River Road is one of my favourite stretches of scenery in Tasmania. Mountains tower above as you weave through the landscape, passing the Needles (an incredible day walk) at the highest point on the road. We stopped a few times to soak in the expanse before forging on to our next destination, Strathgordon.
Strathgordon / Lake Pedder
A ten minute drive past Strathgordon brings you to the Gordon Dam - and the end of the only road leading in to the Southwest. The Gordon Dam was built in 1974 and is the tallest dam in Tasmania, providing the state with roughly 13% of its energy demand. Although an undeniably impressive engineering feat, the construction of Gordon Dam was a tragic loss for the environment, resulting in the flooding of Lake Pedder. Witnessing the carnage to wilderness and wildlife led to many more passionately fought battles to protect Tasmania’s incredibly unique and natural assets, including the successful Franklin Dam campaign.
Today, local businesses are dedicated to showcasing the beauty that remains in this part of Tasmania, providing wonderful experiences to visitors from near and far. Checking in to Pedder Wilderness Lodge we were transported back in time, reading about the history of the area in their front lobby. Now refurbished accomodation for travellers and a frequent stopover for Hydro staff, the lodge was once home to the men and women who built the dam in this harsh and unforgiving landscape.
With the remaining light of the day we snuck in a trip to the dam and feeling like tiny ants, we watched the sun go down in this surreal place where man meets nature. Soon the icy rain was pelting sideways and with a one track mind for dinner, Brodie and I finally gave in and made a run for the car.
The lodge dining lounge was the perfect place to enjoy a hot meal and a good amount of wine by the fireplace while the rain came down outside. We spent the night chatting to our fellow travel companions and looking through Tasmanian photography books.
Kayaking with Tassie Bound
We woke before sunrise the next morning to light rain, but reminding ourselves of a pact made with friends the night before, we dragged ourselves out of bed. A leisurely morning walk ensued, turning into a slog up a hill in driving rain and stinging hail. Heavy cloud rolled in so quickly until we could hardly see anything ahead or behind. We spent a quick while at the top before b-lining back down, laughing in disbelief at the extreme conditions. By the time we arrived back at the lodge for breakfast the weather had cleared and blue sky was emerging. We could see the hill we’d hiked up from the restaurant, mocking us with it’s sunniness.
After breakfast we met Fiona and Liam of Tassie Bound, who got us kitted up for a kayaking adventure. To see Lake Pedder from the shore is one thing, but to experience it from the water was absolutely incredible. We paddled gently at first, getting our sea legs and finding our rhythm. As we paddled out of the sheltered bay, the weather suddenly changed and we found ourselves paddling like mad against the howling wind, rain whipping our faces. The weather came and went, giving us a chance to rest in the sun between showers.
The more we chatted to Fiona and Liam, the more obvious it became that they were one hundred percent driven by their love of Tasmania and community. They’ve tailored their tours to provide people with real experiences of our island and Brodie and I couldn’t believe how much knowledge they had about the area. Their commitment to low impact, unobtrusive tourism is admirable and something I hope to see more and more businesses working towards.
We came upon a white quartzite beach and pulled in for a break. I imagined what this place would be like in Summer… secluded, warm sun heating the quartz shore, jumping in and out of the lake between chapters of a good book… It was just as gorgeous this day though, with mist gliding down from the mountains and across the lake. Liam poured us all a hot cup of tea and we shared stories of unproven thylacine sightings in the Southwest, before paddling the last stretch back to where we started.
A hot shower back in our room and we were ready for the drive back to Hobart.
